But something tells me this won’t be for much longer in his case. “But I wanted to be more playful with other techniques, too.”Īlleyne, who graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA last year, made an endearing point of having created the entire collection on the floor of his bedroom, something a lot of young designers have to do at the onset of their careers. “It was about extending my story of draping into new spaces,” he said. The rebellious undercurrent of his brand’s spirit was further amplified in the details of safety pins, knots and cutouts.
Instead of using only silks and jerseys, as he has done previously, Alleyne explored fabric manipulation with harder materials like cotton, Tyvek, leather and denim.
This season, the fabrications were more complex and the silhouettes less fluid: it felt more stiff and intentional. The space was buzzing with thumping sounds from a DJ playing a set, as models adorned in Alleyne’s creations were dispersed and placed on top of mannequins that he’d dressed, too.Ĭontinuing to challenge gender roles, proportions and sizing, the Jamaican-Caymanian designer also wanted to retain his culture and heritage as a central focus in his work. “The first one was so stressful-that’s not how I want to approach my journey in fashion it’s something I have to enjoy.” The pleasure he speaks of translated into the clothes for spring, which were shown at the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London. “I had to have fun this time,” said Jawara Alleyne of his sophomore collection with Fashion East, looks 39 to 52. For that digital generation of designers, self-expression now seems synonymous with amplification: sexier, sassier, braver, and entirely unapologetic. I discovered my aesthetic through quarantine, so it changed how I design.” That’s a reminder of how the last 18 months have forever impacted the youth that will form fashion’s future. “I do oftentimes consider everything digitally. Everything I do, I instantly wear and take a picture. No, which was filmed in the Caribbean.īut his work felt most relevant in its ability to jump through a screen: these were generational clothes, by a generational designer, for the digital generation. It shaped a collection suspended between the properties of swimwear and the ‘sailor mas’ costumes of Trinidad’s carnivals, projected in the image of Bond girls such as Ursula Andress, who carried that torch in Dr. “The sensuality and freedom these kids had reminded me of carnival, which is an expression of freedom,” he explained during a preview. Pictures taken by the nature photographer Nadia Huggins of teenagers swimming in the Caribbean evoked memories of Davis’s own childhood holidays in Trinidad. Maximilian Davis, who presented his third collection under the umbrella showcase (and his first-ever runway show, looks 1 to 24), referred to his swimwear-inspired collection as “pose-wear”-the kind you strut around in by the pool-but founded it in poetic references from his family’s native Trinidad. It’s a far more significant symptom of current youth mentality. But if you asked the young talents at Fashion East-which nurtures the designers of the future-sexy, scanty, sizzling fashion isn’t simply about revenge travel and thirsty selfies. Here, Vogue looks back at the 22 most memorable runway finales of all time.The term ‘hot girl summer’ has been thrown around a lot over the past few months of post-lockdown sunshine and re-opened borders. Over the last few years, these are the images that have been burned into the fashion industry’s collective memory: the original 1990s supermodels reuniting at Versace’s S/S 2018 show to the strains of George Michael’s Freedom! ’90 Rihanna speeding down the catwalk on the back of a motorbike after her S/S 2018 Fenty x Puma show Christopher Bailey taking his final bow at Burberry after Cara Delevingne closed the show in a rainbow-colored cape. It was a fitting finale for a collection that put diversity, romance, and hope center stage. Visibly emotional, she stood beside Pierpaolo Piccoli as the crowd applauded and a dazzling cast of models lined up behind them wearing the designer’s ruffled creations. Just think of Naomi Campbell gliding down the runway in a sumptuous translucent black gown for Valentino’s spring/summer 2019 couture presentation. It’s the closing look of a show that is relied upon to make a lasting impression.
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